Short answer
Aim for a warm end of about 86–95°F (30–35°C), with the basking surface near 90°F, and a cool end of about 72–79°F (22–26°C). At night, let it drop but keep it above about 64–68°F (18–20°C). Put every heat source on a thermostat and check both ends every day with a digital thermometer.
Why a gradient, not one temperature
Leopard geckos cannot make their own body heat. They warm up and cool down by moving between warmer and cooler spots. That is why every source describes a range from one end of the enclosure to the other, not a single number.1
A gradient also lets the gecko choose: warm after a meal to digest, cooler when it rests. A tank kept the same temperature everywhere takes that choice away.
The numbers, source by source
| Source | Basking or warm end | Cool end | Night |
|---|---|---|---|
| Royal Veterinary College1 | ~90°F (32°C) basking spot | ~77°F (25°C) | Not below ~68°F (20°C) |
| RSPCA2 | 82–86°F (28–30°C) | 75–79°F (24–26°C) | Heat only if room drops below ~64°F (18°C) |
| ReptiFiles3 | 90–95°F basking surface | 72–77°F | Not given |
| University of Liverpool vet practice4 | 86–95°F (30–35°C) warm side | ~75°F (24°C) | A slight drop is fine |
| Vet Times5 | 79–86°F (26–30°C) over the mat | 68–70°F (20–21°C) | Not below ~68°F (20°C) |
| VCA6 | Enclosure in the mid-80s°F | Not given | Can drop to ~70°F (21°C) |
| Zen Habitats7 | 94–97°F basking surface; warm hide 90–92°F | 70–77°F | 60–70°F |
Where they agree: a warm end in the high 80s to low 90s°F, a cool end in the 70s, and a drop at night. Zen Habitats, an enclosure maker, is the only source that goes above 95°F at the surface.7
Our working range
| Zone | Target | Measure with |
|---|---|---|
| Basking surface | About 88–92°F (31–33°C) | Infrared thermometer, on the surface |
| Warm end, floor level | 86–95°F (30–35°C) | Digital probe thermometer |
| Cool end | 72–79°F (22–26°C) | Digital probe thermometer |
| Night | Above 64–68°F (18–20°C) | Digital thermometer with min/max |
This range is our summary of the sources above. It follows the RVC, University of Liverpool and ReptiFiles figures; the RSPCA and Vet Times set the warm end lower, at about 79–86°F.14325 If you are unsure, aim for the middle of each band rather than the edges.
Where the heat goes
Put all heat at one end. The thermostat probe goes at the warm end, where the gecko actually sits, so the thermostat controls the temperature the gecko feels.
Choosing a heat source
| Heat source | How sources use it | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Basking bulb (light-emitting) | RVC’s main heat, on at least 12 hours a day1 | Mimics the sun; turn off at night |
| Heat mat | Vet Times: under one third to one half of the floor5 | Thermostat probe on the mat surface2 |
| Ceramic heat emitter | RSPCA: for night heat without light2 | Gets very hot; always guard it |
| Heat tape or under-tank heater | Listed by VCA6 | Same thermostat rule as a mat |
| Heat rock | Not recommended6 | Creates hot spots that burn |
Many keepers combine a basking bulb for daytime with a mat or ceramic emitter for nights in a cold room. That matches the RVC approach of a basking spot plus background heat.1
Safety rules for any setup:
- Run every heat source through a thermostat.12
- Guard bulbs and emitters so the gecko cannot touch them.1
- Keep the gecko at least 6 in (15 cm) from any heat bulb.6
- Keep dome fixtures off plastic lids, which can melt.6
How to measure
- Place one digital probe at floor level under the heat and one at the cool end.
- Use a thermometer that records the daily minimum and maximum, so you catch night drops.1
- Check the basking surface with an infrared thermometer.
- Check every day for the first week, then daily at a glance. Thermostats can be inaccurate, so trust the thermometer.2
- Re-check when the season changes. A colder room in winter can pull the whole gradient down.
Fixing a gradient that is off
| What you see | Likely cause | What to try |
|---|---|---|
| Warm end too cold | Bulb too weak, or probe placed too far from the heat | Move the probe under the heat; try a stronger bulb on the same thermostat |
| Warm end too hot | Thermostat set too high, or no thermostat | Lower the set point; never run heat without a thermostat |
| Cool end too warm | Enclosure too short, or heat too central | Move heat to one end; consider a longer enclosure |
| Whole tank too cold at night | Cold room | Add a mat or ceramic emitter on a thermostat |
| Gecko never leaves the cool hide | Warm end may be too hot | Measure the basking surface and the warm hide |
| Gecko always pressed on the heat | Cool end or room may be too cold | Measure both ends and the night low |
If the power goes out
PetMD lists power cuts and heat-source failure among the causes of hypothermia in reptiles, which shows as lethargy, less activity and more sleeping.8 If your gecko got cold, warm it gradually over several hours rather than quickly: bring it to room temperature first, then give it access to normal heat, with room to move away from it.9 PetMD warns that warming a reptile too fast can cause serious complications, and advises contacting a vet.8
Common questions
What temperature is too hot for a leopard gecko?
None of the sources we checked recommend a warm end above 95°F (35°C), except one maker that lists a basking surface up to 97°F. Treat 95°F as the top of the range and always leave a cool end in the 70s.
What temperature is too cold for a leopard gecko?
The RVC and Vet Times say night temperatures should not go below about 68°F (20°C). The RSPCA adds heat at night only if the room falls below about 64°F (18°C).
Do leopard geckos need heat at night?
Only if your room gets cold. Turn off any light at night, and use a heat mat or a ceramic heat emitter on a thermostat if the enclosure would drop below about 64–68°F.
Is a heat mat or a heat lamp better?
Both are used by veterinary sources. The RVC uses a basking bulb with background heat; Vet Times describes a heat mat under one third to one half of the floor. Whatever you choose, it must run through a thermostat.
Is an under-tank heater good or bad for a leopard gecko?
VCA lists heat tapes, under-tank heaters and low-level basking lights as good heat sources, and warns against in-tank hot rocks because they can create hot spots that burn. Whatever you use, run it on a thermostat.
What should I do if the power goes out?
Keep the gecko warm and check it when power returns. PetMD lists power cuts and heat-source failure as causes of hypothermia. If your gecko got cold, warm it gradually over several hours rather than quickly, as Exotics Keeper advises, and call a vet if it stays sluggish.
Sources
Numbers in the text link to these sources. We checked each one on the date shown.
- 1Leopard gecko care factsheet (2024)Beaumont Sainsbury Animal Hospital, Royal Veterinary College. Checked Oct 29, 2026.
- 2Leopard gecko care sheetRSPCA. Checked Oct 29, 2026.
- 3Leopard Gecko Care SheetReptiFiles. Checked Oct 29, 2026.
- 4Leopard gecko husbandry and careFilipe Martinho, MRCVS. University of Liverpool Veterinary Practice. Checked Oct 29, 2026.
- 5Management, care and common conditions of leopard geckosMarie Kubiak. Vet Times. Checked Oct 29, 2026.
- 6Leopard Geckos: Care and FeedingGregory Rich, DVM. VCA Animal Hospitals. Checked Oct 29, 2026.
- 7Leopard Gecko Care GuideZen Habitats (enclosure maker). Checked Oct 29, 2026.
- 8Hypothermia in ReptilesSean Perry, DVM. PetMD. Checked Oct 29, 2026.
- 9Immediate First Aid for Pet ReptilesDr Michaela Betts. Exotics Keeper Magazine. Checked Oct 29, 2026.
Update history
- : First published.
- : Added common questions from keeper forums.
- : Re-checked every claim against its sources; corrected wording, numbers and attributions.