Leopard Gecko Care Guide: Setup, Heat, Diet and Health

Leopard geckos at a glance

Adult length

About 7–10 in (18–25 cm)⁶²

Lifespan

10–20 years in captivity³

Most active

At dawn and dusk⁶

Diet

Live insects²

Enclosure

At least 36 × 18 × 18 in²

Warm end

About 86–95°F (30–35°C)⁴

Cool end

About 72–79°F (22–26°C)⁶³

Humidity

30–40%, plus a humid hide²

Housing

Alone³

Leopard geckos are most active at dawn and dusk.²⁶ They are ground dwellers, so floor space matters more than height.⁷ They store fat in their tails, and a thick tail is one sign of a healthy gecko.³

What you need before you bring one home

Set up and test the enclosure for a few days before the gecko arrives, so temperatures are stable on day one.

• An enclosure of at least 36 × 18 × 18 in, with a secure, ventilated top²¹
• A heat source for the warm end and a thermostat for every heat source²³
• A digital thermometer, plus an infrared thermometer to check surfaces³
• A hygrometer to measure humidity²
• A low-output UVB tube sized to cover one third to one half of the enclosure length³
• Three hides: warm, cool and humid²
• A safe substrate (see below) and a shallow water dish¹
• Feeder insects, insect food for gut-loading, calcium powder and a reptile multivitamin¹²
• A kitchen scale that reads in grams, for regular weigh-ins

Enclosure size

The Royal Veterinary College gives 36 × 18 × 18 inches as the minimum for one adult, and says larger is better.² ReptiFiles uses the same minimum, rejects 10- and 20-gallon tanks, and recommends 4 × 2 ft or more where space allows.⁷ Older guidance from VCA still allows a 10-gallon tank for a single gecko.¹ We follow the newer, larger standard.

Choose a front-opening enclosure if you can. Reaching in from the side is less like a predator swooping from above, and makes spot cleaning easier.

Read our full guide: Leopard gecko enclosure size, compared to scale.

Layout: give your gecko a choice

The goal is a gradient, not one temperature. Put the heat at one end and leave the other end cool, with a hide at each end so the gecko never has to choose between feeling safe and being at the right temperature.²

• Warm hide over the heat source.²
• Humid hide with damp moss or paper towel, for shedding.²³
• Cool hide at the far end.²
• Water dish at the cool end.³
• Low climbing pieces and clutter for exercise and cover. Keep anything elevated low and stable, so a fall cannot hurt your gecko.

Heat and temperatures

Sources differ by a few degrees, but most land in the same range: a warm end around 86–95°F and a cool end around 72–79°F.

• Night temperatures should not fall below about 68°F (20°C).²⁵
• Every heat source must run through a thermostat.²³ Check temperatures daily, because thermostats can drift.³
• Do not use heat rocks. They create hot spots that can burn.¹
• Guard heat lamps, and keep the gecko at least 6 in (15 cm) away from any heat bulb.¹²
• Run lights on a timer, about 12 hours on and 12 hours off.²³

Read our full guide: Leopard gecko temperature and heat gradient.

UVB lighting

Leopard geckos are active in low light, and for years UVB was considered unnecessary. Research now shows they do make vitamin D3 in their skin when they get UVB: geckos given low-level UVB from hatching had higher vitamin D levels than geckos without it (61 vs 38 nmol/L).⁸ Even two hours of UVB a day raised vitamin D levels in adults.⁹

The same 2020 study found that dietary vitamin D3 alone met the needs for growth in the first six months.⁸ VCA calls UVB recommended but not required.¹ UK veterinary sources now include low-output UVB in their standard setup.²³⁴

• Use a low-output tube (about 2–6%).³²⁴
• Mount it over the warm end, covering one third to one half of the length.³
• Keep the cool end shaded, with hides at both ends, so the gecko can get away from the UVB.³
• Replace the lamp on the maker’s schedule; one vet practice suggests every 12–18 months.⁴

Read our full guide: Do leopard geckos need UVB?

Humidity and shedding

Keep humidity around 30–40%.²⁶ The RVC measures it in the middle of the enclosure; the RSPCA measures it at the cool end.²³ The humid hide gives the gecko a damp spot to soften old skin. Re-moisten it every few days.³

Young geckos may shed about every 10 days while growing fast; adults shed about every six to eight weeks.⁵ Many leopard geckos eat their shed skin, which is normal.¹⁰

Good hydration and humidity help prevent stuck shed. Skin left on the toes can cut off blood flow and cost the gecko its toes.⁵ Never pull stuck skin off.³

Substrate

Avoid loose particles that a gecko can swallow with its food. Sand and large particles such as bark chips or gravel can block the gut.⁵ VCA warns against coarse sand, corncob and crushed walnut shells.¹

Option	Good for	Watch out for
Paper towel	Quarantine, juveniles, sick geckos	Plain look; change often2
Slate or tile	Adults; holds heat; easy to clean	Can get too hot over a heat mat; check with an IR thermometer
Reptile carpet	Easy setup; listed by VCA1	Check often for loose threads
Soil and sand mix	Adults, natural digging	Impaction risk; feed in a dish, not on the substrate32

Here sources disagree. The RSPCA describes a soil and sand mix for adults and warns against calcium sand,³ while VCA lists only solid or coarse options.¹ If you choose a loose mix, start with a solid floor for juveniles and always feed from a dish.³

Read our full guide: Leopard gecko substrate: what is safe and what to avoid.

Food and feeding

Leopard geckos are insectivores. Live insects should make up most of the diet.²

• Staples: crickets, dubia roaches, silkworms and locusts.²
• In moderation: mealworms.²
• Treats only: waxworms and other fatty worms.²³
• Size: no bigger than the gecko’s head.³
• Gut-load insects with a good diet for 24–48 hours before feeding them.³¹
• Remove uneaten insects after about 30 minutes.²

Age	How often (sources)
Juvenile	Daily3 to every 1–2 days1
Adult	Every other day3 to 2–3 times a week1

Supplements. Dust insects with calcium, and keep a small dish of plain calcium in the enclosure.¹³ Add a reptile multivitamin: one vet practice suggests once a week,⁴ while the RVC alternates calcium and multivitamin dustings.² Follow the product label to avoid overdosing.³

Read our full guide: Leopard gecko feeding schedule by age.

Water

Keep a shallow dish of clean water out at all times and change it daily.¹² Do not add vitamin drops to the water.¹⁰

Handling

• Let a new gecko settle for at least a week before handling.³
• Keep sessions to about 10–15 minutes.³
• Scoop it up gently with both hands, supporting all four feet.³ Never grab the tail.¹⁰
• A frightened gecko can drop its tail. It regrows over five to eight weeks but will not look the same.⁵
• Wash your hands after handling. Reptiles can carry Salmonella.²

Housing more than one gecko

Keep leopard geckos alone.³ Adult males are territorial,¹ and housing geckos together can lead to bite wounds, broken bones and dropped tails.⁷

Health: what normal looks like

A healthy leopard gecko has clear, bright eyes, a thick tail, fairly dry droppings, and holds its belly off the floor when moving.³

The most common problems seen by vets are linked to setup and diet:⁵

• Metabolic bone disease: soft jaw, bent legs or fractures, from too little calcium, vitamin D3 or heat.
• Impaction: from swallowing sand, bark or gravel with food.
• Stuck shed: from low humidity or dehydration.
• Parasites, including Cryptosporidium, which causes weight loss and failure to grow.
• Egg binding in females without a damp place to lay.

Plan a yearly vet check, with a fecal test for parasites.⁴² Weigh your gecko every week or two and write the number down. A falling weight is often the first sign of trouble. Our tail and weight guide shows how to judge body shape.

Seasonal slowdowns

Some leopard geckos eat less and sleep more in cooler months. The RSPCA treats this as normal as long as the gecko does not lose weight.³ A UK vet practice takes a stricter view: in a properly heated enclosure, lethargy is a sign of illness.⁴ If your gecko slows down, check your temperatures, weigh it, and call a vet if the weight drops. See leopard gecko not eating: what to check, in order.